The following is an except from the Jaymic parts catalog and has been reprinted here with the permission of Mike Macartney. Mike is owner of Jaymic, in Norfolk, England, and specializes in vintage BMW parts, repairs, and modifications. Mike is also author of "The BMW 2002 - A Comprehensive Guide to the Classic Sporting Saloon". Jaymic has an impressive catalog and extensive inventory of parts and can be reached at (44)1263-511710.

Fuel injection problems - Ask for [Jaymic's] free information sheet on how to set up and look after your injection system. Check fuel filters and fuel delivery back to the tank. Delivery, with the engine not running but the ignition on, should be 850cc's in 30 seconds.

When "setting" the linkages always hold the linkage back, as if your foot was lightly on the accelerator pedal, to eliminate slack in any of the linkage ball joints. [Jaymic sells the proper] injection set up tools.

Don't let people who don't understand the system "play with it" - you probably know more than them!

Handbrake won't adjust - Replaced brake shoes, handbrake cables and the seized brake back plates and still the handbrake will not work? Replace the brake drums. A very small amount of wear on the brake drums affects the handbrake adjustment greatly.

How do I get the dash instruments out? Take off the lower dash panels and steering column covers. Disconnect the speedo drive at the speedo (knurled nut) and undo the 2 knurled nuts holding the instrument panel in. The instrument cluster then slides out towards the steering wheel.

No headlamps or only main beam - Usually caused by a bad contact on a fuse. Clean all of the fuse contacts, not just the headlamp ones. If that does not do the trick - check that a wire has not dropped off the back of the light switch on the dashboard.

Not enough fuel to the carburetor - Don't blame the pump before checking that air is not leaking in through perished rubber fuel piping. It may be the rubber pipe which runs which runs from the fuel tank to the plastic pipe that carries fuel through the car. The plastic pipe runs along the right hand inner sill and exits through into the engine compartment in the center of the front bulkhead.

Overheating - If steam is coming out of the engine compartment, STOP. Don't drive the car further until the problem is cured. If you do, it may cost you a new cylinder head. The cylinder heads are alloy and can easily crack or warp if overheated.

Rear hub nut - What is the size and how do I tighten it? The spanner size is 36mm. It must be tight. Use a meter length of pole over your socket bar! If I tell you the torque setting you won't have a torque wrench that goes up that high!

Runs weak on number 4 cylinder - Usually caused by a leaking perished servo vacuum hose.

Slow clutch response - Pump the clutch pedal a half dozen times and if it "jams" halfway down the rubber flexible pipe to the clutch slave cylinder needs replacing.

Starter motor won't turn - If not a [dead] battery, the center small trigger wire may have dropped off the starter motor solenoid.

Stiff steering - If the car has only been driven a little over the past years, the center track rod ends may have rusted, or the strut top bearings may have partially seized.

What's the firing order? Look on the rocker cover! (1-3-4-2)

Alternator not charging - Check that the brown earth wire is connected from the alternator to the engine block.
Blue smoke on the overrun - This is a sign of worn valves, guides or valve stems (it may be all 3). It burns little oil but can be annoying to drivers traveling behind.

Body Panels - Always tack or screw (with self tapping screws) body panels to the body to check fit and alignment before welding. Rust creeps behind the orginal sound proofing on the floor pans, especially above the chassis rails. When restoring the bodyshell remove the soundproofing to inspect underneath for rust. Always paint topcoat under wings. Never leave the car in bare primer outside in the rain - most primer paints absorb moisture. If you want strength and a lasting repair - repair the sills properly using the original sill panels with the strengthening at the rear for the subframe mountinrear for the subframe mountings.

Brake bleeding - With twin servo systems always use an "Easi-Bleed" type system that pushes the brake fluid through the system under pressure. It is much easier than trying to pump the brake fluid through by pumping the brake pedal. You are also less likely to damage the master cylinder piston seals. Always bleed the servos first.

Brake pulling - Normally caused by seized caliper pistons. Also check the rubber flexible brake pipes (ie hoses) as they tend to "heal up" inside and act as one way valves. (ie the fluid will go through under pressure, but will not return). This can cause brake fade in extreme cases. If you can easily blow through the pipe it is OK. If not, replace them.

Brake servos not working? With the engine off - pump the brake pedal 6-10 times to get rid of the vacuum left in the manifold. Leave your foot on the brake pedal and start the engine. If the pedal goes down further, the servos should be OK, but if the pedal comes back and presses against your foot, the servo or servos may be faulty.

Buying alloy wheels - Check the wheel inset before buying alloy wheels, especially if they are from a 3 series BMW. 25-28mm inset is needed on 6" rims if you want them to fit under standard wheel arches.

Car not level - Check that the rear springs have not "sunk" into the box section above them. This box section was rarely rustproofed when new and rusts from the inside. If OK - heights at the front and back can be adjusted with different thickness spacers. Contact Jaymic for the parts you need.

Cooling - Never run the cooling system without anti-freeze or a corrosion inhibitor. Copper radiator - alloy head - cast iron block - make for a very corrosive mixture! Extend the overflow hose to miss the front panel cross member or you may nd up buying too many front panels!

Thermostat - The normal thermostat as fitted to the 1502-2002tii was the 80deg thermostat. The 2002 turbo had the 75deg. If your engine runs "HOT" and the temperature gauge shows above normal you may be better off by fitting the 75deg or even the 71deg thermostat. If your engine runs cool and you can not get enough heat out of the heater - try an 83deg thermostat. WARNING:- Never run without a thermostat. If you do run without a thermostat for any reason you MUST block the hose from the top of the thermostat to the cylinder head.

Dashboard warning light stays on - Probably the switch at fault behind the handbrake lever.

Flickering instruments - Indicates bad earth. Check the soundness of the following wiring earth points (brown wires): - By the battery, engine fire wall (front bulkhead) on the tii and turbo, behind the glove box and in the [trunk] area under the petrol tank cover board, and last but not least the large earth lead to the engine block.